Betlan Corporation

Betlan

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Stainless Steel Hoods

Introduction:

Elaborate blueprints are not required to price and build a counter. Just a simple but comprehensive hand sketch. This section guides you through the selection process of purchasing a counter top, and explains available options. In addition, providing the very best possible pricing because we may be able to offer cost saving suggestions. This outline is especially helpful for oversized and custom sized counters.

Shape and size:

Draw a plan view (top down) of the shape of your counter. If you are obtaining a quote, the dimensions do not necessarily have to be exact. Indicate if dimensions are only approximate on your sketch and we will provide a preliminary quote.

Material selection:

In addition to stainless, we manufacture copper and brass counters. Copper and brass will darken with age. Unlike hoods, counters are subject to a variety of food chemicals and cleaning agents that cause copper and brass counters to age inconsistently, giving the counter its own unique character and patina. Betlan also manufactures copper farm sinks and copper sinks that can be seamlessly welded into copper counters.

Select the finish:

We offer brushed (standard) and random brushed finishes. The brushed finish is a soft, single directional grain on the counter and has a brighter silvery color. The random brushed finish on stainless is a grayer and duller finish. The advantage of the random brushed finish is that when scratches occur in everyday use, they don't stand out as readily as a scratch across the grain of a directional brushed finish.

Edge treatments:

Select the edge treatment for your counter; the thickness as well as the shape. Counters are normally 1 1/2" thick and have square corners and edges. Square edges and corners are not as sharp and pointed as Formica counters. When forming the steel, the bend is somewhat radiused due to the thickness of the steel. For example; bending a piece of paper will give you a sharper crease than bending a piece of cardboard. The cardboard gives you a slight radius because of the thickness of the material. Using a bull nose edge or making the counter thicker will give the appearance of a massive and heavy looking counter. If two bull nose edges meet, indicate if that corner is to have a full bull nose or it will be mitered with a sharper bull slightly eased edge. Mitered corners are less costly. A marine edge makes the tip slightly recessed. Marine edges have the added benefit of preventing spills from running off the counter. When selecting an edge treatment, be aware of what abuts to each edge of the counter. You would not want a rounded bull nose edge to butt against a wall, for example. Indicate what each side is butting up against IE: sheet rock wall, plaster wall, cabinet, appliance, or nothing (visible end). A cut view diagram showing the shape of the edge is helpful if the counter edges are not square. Indicate the type of wall treatment (or none) that will be brought down and overlap the top of the counter or back splash. If tile is being brought down to the counter and down past the front edge of the counter, then in some instances, that end will not have to be finished; saving you money on the counter. This savings does not usually apply to the rear of the counter because a downward bend is usually required to maintain a straight consistent edge detail over longer lengths.

Back and side splashes:

Indicate which edges have back and side splashes built onto the counter. If no splashes then state "No splashes" on the drawing or "No splash on this edge." This assures us that nothing was overlooked. Provide the height and the thickness on all splashes. Our standard height is 4" and our standard thickness is 15/16". Back and side splashes can be as thick as 1/19" or several inches deep to accommodate spices or small plants. You can have a radius bull nose edge on back and side splashes.

Cutouts and seamless weld in sinks:

Show all cutouts and what the cutout is for; IE: cook top, floor model stove, sink etc. Stainless counters are a wonderful complement to stainless and porcelain stoves and are the ideal choice for build in "Grease spilling" char broilers. If you have a floor model stove, you can have a "U" shaped cutout in the front of the counter to accept the stove, or opt for two separate counters; One on each side of the stove. If there is a single or double bowl sink, then note if it is a drop in, a farm sink (with a front panel), an under mount sink or a seamlessly welded in sink. Betlan's welded in sink has a seamless appearance and appears as if the sink was molded into the counter. A seamlessly integral sink and drainboard is beautiful and unsurpassed for ease of cleanliness and continuity of appearance. Show the location of your build in drain board, soap dispenser, and hand sprayer. Counters are usually 1 1/2" thick and when a cutout is made, the plywood sub straight becomes exposed. Sometimes, the inside of the cutout must be finished. You must indicate if the inside of the cutout needs to be finished or not. Likewise, built in cook tops vary as to whether or not the inside edges of a cutout must be finished. Typically, the insides of a cutout for a cook top do not need to be finished but you must indicate so on your sketch. On under mount sinks and some farm sinks, the inside edges of the cutout must be completely welded and finished but on others, they may not. Also provide approximate dimensions of the cook top or sink and note if the sink is single bowl or double bowl. Provide as much detail as possible. Place all information on the sketch. Draw a square on your diagram for each sink or cook top and place locations on the drawing. If the exact location is not known, then simply say "approximate location" on your sketch. The location is not usually critical for pricing. However, on very large counters, particularly, large "L" shaped or "U" shaped counters, it is usually very important to have a pretty good idea of sink or cutout locations because it can significantly affect pricing.

Final Details - Measuring and Templating:

After your counter has been scheduled for production, the final measurements and details need to be firmed up and "Cast in stone" so to speak. Ideally, providing a template to our manufacturing facility is the best way to assure the counter is built to the correct dimensions. However, a diagram with separate dimensions on each and every side of the counter often works very well. The owner must provide exact locations of all cutouts including soap dispensers etc. Ideally, the faucets and all fixtures should be shipped to BETLAN for assurance of a perfect fit. For large cook tops, drop in sinks, and under mount sinks, the manufacturer supplied template must be sent to BETLAN. We can provide pricing for sinks. For seamlessly welded in sinks we only work with sinks meeting our requirements. Sinks must be under mount style and 18 gauge thickness. If you provide the sink to be welded in, it is your responsibility to have it delivered to BETLAN in advance.

Important Notes:

When locating the position of the sink, be sure the cabinet area is large enough to fit both the sink and the faucets. Check that the sink does not fall where there is an inside partition in the cabinet. Be aware that base cabinets often have a support brace at the top of the cabinet. This effectively makes the front and rear walls of the cabinet as much as 1 1/2" thick. Sometimes there may be additional wood braces placed in the corners of the cabinet that prevent the sink from fitting into the compartment. A common oversight is that there is enough room for the faucet and sink but not enough access in the rear for the plumber to reach up and attach the pipes to the faucet.

Standard features on all counters include:

High grade # 304 quality stainless steel
16 Gauge (1/16 ") thick stainless steel
Soft brushed finish (#4 polish)
Maple/plywood substraight core for excellent resistance to heat and moisture
Standard 1 1/2" thickness on all counters
Standard 25" depth on all counters
Standard 15/16" thickness on all back and side splashes
Joints that are welded and polished to be seamless

Finished ends are standard on counters. This cut view shows an "unfinished" end for illustration purposes. Features shown here are "Typical" for all counters.

Counters are typically fabricated with finished and polished ends. However, if an end is abutting a wall and wood or tile is used to trim to the counter or the counter can be scribed into the wall, then it makes economic sense to leave that end unfinished.

These examples show the information required for quoting and final measuring. It is better to do several drawings than include too much information on one drawing.

1. Draw the shape of the counter, Provide dimensions, including the thickness of the counter. Note the counter top material and the type of finish (IE: Brushed).

2. Provide details about back and side splashes.

3. A side view (cut view) of the counter shows edge treatments.

Where two bull nose edges meet at a corner; Indicate if the corner will be a rounded bull nose or a mitered corner with a slightly "Eased" corner.

Marine cove edges help protect cabinets and floors from spills.

4. Detail the informations about what abuts each side of the counter.

5. Show details regarding sink, faucets, etc.

6. Provide information about cutouts and what they are for.

When cutouts are made, the interior wood sub straight is exposed. Specify if the inside of the cutout must be finished. For example: A drop in sink or cooktop covers the exposed core so it does not have to be finished. And undermout sink, however, would require a finished interior because it will be mounted below the wood core.